I often receive various messages from my watchmates in the background of the watch world, and one of them caught my attention. This cousin just entered the watch ‘big pit’, went to the store to watch the watch every three minutes. When many sales are at the reception, they will particularly emphasize that their watches are well polished. From the beginning, the cousin didn’t care. He talked too much about sales, and he was curious. Is the polishing of mechanical watches really useful? How to look at the grade of polishing? Although when it comes to watch polishing, most of them refer to the polishing of the movement, but in fact, the polishing range extends far beyond the movement, such as the case and bracelet. Without sanding, the watch is extremely rough and cannot be worn at all. The Swiss watch pays attention to details, and the center axis of the hands will also be polished, and the polishing of some details may sometimes be used as a basis for judging the authenticity of the watch. For example, taking the pointer axis , although this is a tiny part, Swiss watches are usually polished, and fake watches are difficult to take care of such as the axis of the pointer due to cost, process and other reasons. detail. The beautiful and delicate movement of the movement can greatly increase the added value of the watch. If we divide according to function, sanding can be roughly divided into two types: functional sanding and decorative sanding. Rolex focuses on functional grinding. Functional grinding is mainly practical. It can remove the burrs left during processing, enhance the rust resistance of the movement, and achieve the purpose of accurate watch operation. Decorative sanding focuses on aesthetics, and it has nothing to do with the accuracy of the watch. Polishing to increase the added value of watches is mostly decorative polishing. It should be noted here that the two are not one or the other, and sometimes there is a certain decorative nature in functional polishing and a functional nature in decorative polishing. Many people will think that Rolex’s movements are not very polished, and they don’t seem to be as ‘glossy’ as some brands. This is mainly because Rolex focuses on functional polishing for the sake of watchmaking. Rolex’s positioning is a high-level practical watch. Its annual output is about 700,000-800,000. If you pay attention to the decoration and beauty of the movement like some brands, and spend a lot of time on decorative polishing, it is not only difficult to guarantee such a huge The annual output and cost are not allowed. But if we look at it from another angle, Rolex’s polishing is actually in place. We know that Rolex is basically a watch with a dense bottom, so in fact, we usually can’t see the movement. But if we disassemble the Rolex movement and disassemble the splint above, we will find that Rolex has been polished in many places inside the movement. Many parts of the Rolex movement have been polished, and some brands of the same level as Rolex have been polished, although they have been thoroughly polished, and are polished beautifully where we can see with the naked eye. But where it can’t be seen, it’s completely perfunctory. Therefore, in my opinion, Rolex’s polishing is relatively kind, although it is not so beautiful, but it has a lot more conscience than some similar brands. When it comes to sanding, the most common is the fish scales. This is a relatively basic grinding technique. We can see fish scales on Swiss watches at different prices, and even on some domestic watches. It looks like fish scales, one by one, densely distributed on the oscillating weight or splint, and has a complex beauty. If some watches are reluctant to use fish scales, there is no decoration on the movement, and it is as smooth as undressed. What is the value of this watch, we don’t even have to look at the brand to know. If the fish scales are polished by an entry-level movement, the advanced version is considered Geneva Ripples . This is more common in high-end watches. Some entry-level brands will be decorated with Geneva ripples on individual parts such as the rotor. Blancpain’s ‘day-date’ dual calendar display uses standard Geneva ripples to polish the Geneva splines. The name comes from the sparkling Lake Geneva. The most common Geneva ripples are parallel straight lines, but it may not always be They are all ‘straight’ and can be bent to form other styles, such as circular or radial. Like the Omega Co-Axial movement, it uses radial Geneva waves. It should be noted that in some German brands, there are also polishing of fish scales and Geneva ripples, but because of different origins, they may be called differently, but there is no difference in essence. Using the Piaget 700P movement with ring-shaped Geneva wave polishing and the radial Omega 8704 coaxial coaxial plate with Geneva wave polishing, in addition to fish scales and Geneva waves, there are also brushed straight lines . From the shape point of view, brushed straight lines are a bit like thin hair. The texture of the splint is significantly better after being drawn with straight lines. For example, Panerai’s plywood is often polished in this way. Panerai 1312’s movement is brushed and straight grained. Although these three types of polishing can be seen in many brands, it does not mean that the quality of each is the same. The reason is also very simple. For example, there are many people who can speak English now, but they also speak English. Can the graduates of ordinary universities have the same level of simultaneous interpretation? Therefore, even if it is common fish scales and Geneva ripples, there will be a large gap between entry-level brands and top brands. In general, not only are top brands polished, but prices have also risen. For example, brands such as Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, which sell for hundreds of thousands of dollars, can be easily handled, whether they are basic fish scales or more advanced Geneva ripples, and Delicate and textured, even with careful observation with eyepieces, it can still stand the test. The chamfering at the edges of the rounded chamfering splints that appear in top watches is even more effective. Chamfering is a technique that softens sharp, right-angled corners. The edges of the un-chamfered plywood are often at a 90-degree angle, which is very sharp. In some mid- to high-end brands, the edges of the splint are usually chamfered. According to the shape of the chamfer, there are bevel and round chamfers . Independent watchmaker brand GrÖnefeld’s round chamfer grinding in the movement. Bevel chamfering is based on the 90-degree right angle of the edge of the splint, file the bevel, and then carefully polish it with a tool. The truly advanced and ornamental is the round chamfer. With the watchmaker’s superb skills, the original splint edge of the original Pioneer is completely invisible, replaced by a pleasing ’round’ that is pleasing to the eye. Round chamfering is also one of the most difficult processes in grinding. One of the major difficulties of the chamfering process is the grasp of the ‘fire’. If the strength is too large, it is easy to deform the parts, and if the strength is too small, the chamfering effect is not good. In the impression, brands like Patek Philippe, Lange, Vacheron Constantin, etc., can make round chamfers. Philippe Dufour, Romain Gauthier, GrÖnefeld and other independent watchmakers are particularly good at round chamfering. It can be said that the brands that can make smooth and rounded chamfers are necessarily top brands. We often overlook chamfers in some places, such as holes in splints. Friends who are familiar with the structure of mechanical watches know that the mechanical movement is a bit like a ‘sandwich’ and consists of several splints. The plywood is fixed by screws, and the ‘home’ of the screws is in these holes. In addition, a jewel bearing that reduces friction and improves durability is also installed in the hole. So, don’t look at the small volume of these pores, but the effect is great. Fine watches always pay attention to details. The holes in these splints, as well as every screw, will not be missed. These holes have to be cut out with a special machine before burrs and blemishes are removed and chamfered. Vacheron Constantin’s tourbillon series ‘Xianglong Royal Pearl’ watch is black polished on the tourbillon holder. Another difficult polishing process is called black polishing, is also called mirror polishing. The reason why it is called black polishing is that the surface of this polished part appears completely black at a certain angle. Black polishing is usually only used for steel parts, such as tourbillon brackets, screws on clamp plates, and so on. Many of the screws of high-quality mechanical watches are black polished and very beautiful. Of course, such screws are not cheap, and some even cost dozens of Swiss francs. After all, you pay one price for one price. To enjoy good things, you must pay the corresponding price. The mechanical watch brings beautiful enjoyment to a large extent through decorative sanding and various traditional techniques. If there is no exquisite polishing, the charm of mechanical watches may be reduced by half.