At the 2012 SIHH Geneva watch exhibition, Vacheron Constantin launched the Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day power reserve tourbillon watch, numbered 89000 / 000R-9655. The latest member of this Patrimony Traditionnelle series is also the first Vacheron Constantin certified under the new mark of Geneva.
In 2012, the new ‘Mark of Geneva’ certification rules introduced:
The ‘Geneva Mark’ was founded in 1886 by the Swiss Federal Government and the General Assembly of the legislative body of Geneva. Today, starting from 2012, the ‘Geneva Mark’ is an application of changing watchmaking technology and emerging high-tech aerospace materials. The ‘Geneva Mark’ will no longer be a certification mark applicable only to movements, and the authorities have been specially established An independent agency is responsible for performing, in particular, verifying that the assembly, adjustment and casing of the watch is actually carried out in Geneva, and also to evaluate the quality of the production parts and assembly movements, to ensure that the ‘Geneva Mark’ affects the entire city of Geneva. Watch manufacturing process and quality inspection of finished watches.
The new Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day power reserve tourbillon watch inherits the usual design features of the series: the watch is equipped with the classic bezel, scales and hour markers of the series; the silver-white dial with 5N pink gold pointed sword hands is very traditional Charm.
The case, also made of 18K 5N pink gold, has a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 12.2 mm. It is set with a transparent sapphire crystal case back and is waterproof to 30 meters.
Of course, the polished half-Maltese cross design buckle also uses the same material as the case.
Vacheron Constantin has an excellent reputation in the field of tourbillon movement manufacturing, and often uses tourbillon devices with other complicated functions in watches, demonstrating its superb craftsmanship and extraordinary courage in continuous innovation. This time Vacheron Constantin chose a new way to show the beauty of the tourbillon, echoing other watch elements, and at the same time making the characteristics of the tourbillon more vivid.
The small seconds on the tourbillon and the tourbillon frame are displayed at the position of 6:00 on the dial, which represents the perfect combination of the aesthetics and innovative materials of Vacheron Constantin’s mechanical design.
The design of the tourbillon frame is inspired by the brand’s Maltese cross logo, which perfectly displays the extreme decorative treatment of each part of the movement, including a large number of hand-cut internal corners. It only takes about 11 hours for the manual polishing of the tourbillon’s tie bar.
The fourteen-day power reserve display has a 280-degree hand rotation that is easy to read. The display is located at 12:00 on the silvery-white dial, and the design of the minute scale on the outer ring is inspired by classic pocket watches from many brands.
Let’s take a moment to understand how the power reserve works for up to 14 days: This watch is equipped with the new and highly performing Vacheron Constantin 2260 manual winding movement, and is equipped with four barrels (2 pairs). The spring length of a barrel is about 2.2 meters, and each can rotate about 13 turns. Two pairs of barrels can be wound and relaxed at the same time, so the rotation rate is only a quarter of that of a single barrel configuration. In addition to long-term energy storage, multiple barrels can better ensure the stability of the movement after long-term use.
The 2260 movement in this watch is composed of 231 parts and 31 gem bearings, and is equipped with two large splints (different from the three splints in Vacheron Constantin’s previous tourbillon). The extraordinary polishing technique fully displays the beauty of the entire movement decorated with typical Côtes de Genève.
Summary: Testing of finished watches has also become part of the new standard of the Geneva Seal. All technical characteristics, such as waterproof performance or power reserve function, need to be cross-checked and regularly tested by the Geneva Mark inspection department and the brand. Finally, the simulated wearing test of the accuracy of the watch’s travel time has become an important part of the mark. The “Mark of Geneva” inspection department needs to perform a seven-day watch movement accuracy test to ensure that the error rate does not exceed one minute per week. All the elements attest to the high quality of the watch, while guaranteeing the independence and perfect symbol of the Geneva Seal.
For detailed watch parameters, please click: Vacheron Constantin 89000 / 000R-9655 watch